Land, ho. After four sea days, we disembarked in Cotonou, Benin, and drove to Ouijah, a key point in the slave trade and considered the spiritual capital of Vodun (popularly known as “voodoo”) religious practices. Cotonou has several immense statues commemorating moments in their struggle for freedom. And, as it happens, we momentarily parked next to the prison, where friends and family (presumably) of inmates were waiting to be admitted, for visitation.